Inwangsan shuts on Mondays for conservation — go any other day. Start early from Sajik-dong and follow the wall up; it is about two hours round trip and the payoff is the whole city with the mountains stacked behind it. Come down the north side past the Yun Dong-ju museum, cut back through Suseongdong Valley, and land in Seochon in time for Tongin Market's lunchbox café — coins at the desk, tray filled stall by stall, and it closes mid-afternoon.
Inwangsan & the Wall
~5hFortress rampart over the city, on bare rock
- Inwangsan
Fortress wall over bare rock — the city-and-mountains view Bukhansan makes you work three times harder for.
- Suseongdong Valleylocal
A granite stream at the top of Seochon, uncovered when the apartment blocks came down in 2012.
- Yun Dong-ju Literature Museumlocal
A water-pumping station turned memorial to the poet — three small rooms, one roofless courtyard.
Seochon
~3hThe village at the bottom of the mountain
- Tongin Marketlocal
Buy brass coins at the desk, spend them stall to stall, eat the result upstairs — lunchtime only.
- Seochonlocal
The palace's west village — low lanes of bookshops, wine bars and hanok galleries, minus Bukchon's tour groups.